Luther's Denim - A New Jean on the Scene

It's hard to separate the blue jeans from America. When Bruce Springsteen has a record cover with him, in jeans, standing before an American flag, it sort of drives the point home.

Blue jeans are quintessentially American.

So when I was approached by Luther's to review a pair of their jeans - unsanforized, made in the USA Cone Mills redline denim - I jumped at the chance. Full disclosure, I was given these jeans free of charge, and while I still intend to give an unbiased review - I want to be out in the open. Their jeans are utilitarian - no hidden selvedge belt loops or coin pockets here. These are designed to be worn like their predecessors. Their nearest comparison might be to the LVC range, albeit focused on the mid-20th century, rather than running the gamut of denim history. Focus is good for a young company, and really, who doesn't like blue jeans and rock and roll? They have three fits at this time - the 47's - a slim model, the 55's - a regular fit, and the 66's - a tapered fit.

I asked for, and received, a pair of the 66 model. Raw out of the box the quality of the finished construction impressed me.

 

In particular, the denim looks really great. Of the two below pictures, the bottom is probably more accurate in color, a deep blue-black, which should wear nicely. And check out that nice white/red selvedge!

 

Another aspect I like is the hardware - the rivets, the buttons and patch, all have a heft, and really nice finish, while still looking the part, evoking the classic style associated with blue jeans.

But all do they fit? Well, raw, they fit big. But they should shrink, according to their website, by about 2 inches in the waist and 2-3 in the legs. Pre-soak fit pics:

Stay tuned for post-soak fit pics. Anyone starting a new denim company in this day and age needs drive and direction. It looks like Luther's has both - the question is do the public want traditionally detailed selvedge jeans? I'm betting they will.

3Sixteen Jeans: I Wanted Black

When I went to San Francisco last fall, I knew I'd go to Self Edge. I spent my first full day wandering around the city, taking Caltrain to BART, and wandering the mission, while my wife attended various work functions in Palo Alto, which seemed to be a city worth missing. After a nice breakfast sandwich and coffee from Bar Tartine, I wandered over to Self Edge. Before going, I had a pretty solid idea that I was going to look at the 3Sixteen jeans, and due to my strangely over-large calves, I'd be looking at their slim straight cut. Likewise, for whatever reason, I knew - I KNEW - that I was going to pick up a pair in black.

I was half right.

Once I saw the Shadow Selvedge, I knew that was what I was going to get. With indigo dyed warp threads, and black dyed weft threads, initially they have a very dark, almost formal denim look, if such a thing is possible. But as they wear, they get fantastic, almost electric contrasts. With the cognac leather patch, they are definitely worth picking up.

I'd be remiss if I didn't mention my post-purchase libation celebration, recommended by Kiya - Zeitgiest. Go there and enjoy yourself.

Selvage for the Masses

A couple years ago, I made a post which, in hindsight, I'm slightly embarrassed by. It was to tout cheap selvage at the Gap. Untraceable, unremarkable selvage, made in China, most likely, nothing with much character to speak up, except for a silly blue rivet. The price, was, I believe $88, and I paid $66. And this was 2009 money. Why, they'd probably be regularly $90 today!

To sum up, I was blogging about jeans - at the Gap. It seemed like a good idea at the time.

Gustin, however, seems to have come up with a concept worth blogging about. They are going to take Cone Mills (from North Carolina) redline selvage denim, manufacture them in San Francisco (one my my favorite cities in the country, but that's another story), and charge their wholesale price of...wait for it...$81!

This video explains:

Check out the detailed pictures below from their Kickstarter page:

Left to Right - 1.5 years old, 6 months old, brand spanking new

I am very excited by what this could mean - jeans that are U.S. assembled and made of U.S sourced fabric at such a low price point - so to that end, I'll be putting my money where my mouth (and blog) is, so stay tuned for posts regarding fit and finish!

I Demand the Supply Jacket

This Christmas holiday, snow fell outside the suburban Cleveland windows of my in-laws house, as I reclined on their leather couch, a fire going in the fireplace behind me. Recent wants having been sated by gifts, good food, more than adequate alcohol and relaxation, my mind drifting in the winter wonderland haze turned to...why spring wardrobe possibilities of course! I mean, what do you think about when reclining by a fire during Christmas time, Christmas movies?

A few days before our Christmas trip, I read about Rogue Territory's Houston pop-up shop. Filing it away in my mental rolodex, I thought perhaps I would check out their site to see what else they had of interest aside from the well-buzzed about (and deservedly so) Stanton cut jeans - sold here in Chicago at Haberdash.

I immediately noticed their Supply Jacket on their homepage, and in three different, but equally beautiful denims:

SUPPLY JACKET-LTBLUBRKTWL- $195

SUPPLY JACKET-ISC- $210

SUPPLY JACKET-DKIND- $210

I admit, I am something of a sucker for a jean jacket, but I particularly admire the qualities of this cut. First of all, it's long in the body, a nice nod to those who don't dress in a vintage, high-waisted style. Second, it's got hand warmer pockets; even though this jacket is meant for spring and mild weather, hand pockets are absurdly useful. Lastly, each of the three varieties are cut from wonderful, high-quality selvedge fabric, sanforized to minimize shrinkage, but hard wearing. I am most drawn to the DKIND model - dark indigo in 10.5 ounce sanforized fabric from Kaihara Mills (bottom). The lighter weight of the fabric would make it an ideal spring/fall garment here in Chicago. But honestly, any of these jackets are a great cut, well-priced, and tasty as all get out. While this cut (hopefully) will be around a while, these particular denims are very limited, so order one while ye may.